Oslo the Magnificent—”DRAGON STYLE”

Thank you Icelandair for our layover in your beautiful country! An added “bonus” to flying out of Keflavik is that you get to load the plane from the tarmac….always fun when it’s raining . Then we found out that we had different seat assignment as they had to use a different plane, some rickety old thing.  It didn’t make us feel any better when two flight attendants had to try four times to shut the manual sliding door right by our seats. As I watched them struggle, I wondered why parachutes aren’t standard issue, like the life vests… “Simply pull the red rip cord to fully deploy your parachute…Please get sucked out of the plane before helping others deploy their chutes.” I stared at that door the whole flight….Kidding…Not kidding.

But the slightly-less-than-three-hour flight went well. We left Iceland at 10:45 and arrived in Oslo at 3:45pm…wait…that math doesn’t add up. Turns out that not only is Norway in a different time zone, but they are also on daylight savings time, unlike Iceland. After collecting our luggage. We check bags instead of carry-ons even though all our bags are carry-on size compliant. To us it is worth going to the luggage carousel and risking a lost or delayed bag versus hauling them around the terminal and struggling to find a spot in the overhead bins.

SCANDIA HOLMENKOLLEN HOTEL

Now it was late afternoon, but fortunately sunset isn’t until nearly 11pm. We grabbed a high-speed tram that took us up towards the Holmenkollen just a half-hour northwest of downtown. “Mind the gap,” is now a phrase that is engrained in our heads, since the tram recording belted it out at nearly every stop…and there were a lot of stops.

From the tram stop it was about a 1.3 mile walk to our Scandic Holmenkollen Park hotel. And did I mention that the walk was nearly vertical? Great anaerobic workout for these American tourists! If it weren’t for the incessant and loud chattering of the broken wheel on my rolling luggage wobbling and hobbling over the pavement, steps, curbs and cobble, it would have been a very pleasant hike!

I chose our hotel for three reasons…1. It was near the famous Holmenkollen Ski Jump and Ski Museum, which I wanted to show the kids. 2. It was a Scandic Hotel chain of which I am a member. 3. It had a family-size suite so all four of us could share a room, plus an outstanding breakfast buffet. Oh, and finally, maybe most importantly?, on social media it simply looked like the coolest old wood “Viking-esque” hotel I’d ever seen. And the view overlooking the city and harbor wasn’t too shabby either.

And did I mention the all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet? Not even a sliver of resemblance to an American hotel included breakfast, this massive spread included freshly-baked croissants and crusty breads, multiple cheeses, meats, yougurts, Musli, veggies, waffles, eggs, sausages and about 100 other things…plus really, really good coffee.

The wooden part of the hotel was designed by Balthazar Lange and completed in 1894 in the Dragestil style of Norwegian Romantic period architecture (1880-1910). Literally translated to “Dragon Style,” Dragestil buildings draw their inspiration from Viking-era folklore (dragons) and medieval Stavkyrkke (stave churches). Stylized dragon heads arc from the multiple peaked roofs, overhanging levels, timber walls are often stained dark brown or tarred, tall steep-pitched spires add height and drama; all these features make for a dramatic and imposing building. Later in this post we go to yet another world-class Dragestil building just up the road at Frognerseteren.

The Hotel was commandeered by the Nazis during WWII as a base of operations for  the German Airforce Luftwaffe headquarters. I picked this up from Wikipedia but can’t find any other collaboration of this bit of history.

HOLMENKOLLEN SKI JUMP & MUSEUM

Just a short walk from the hotel is the world famous (and massive) Holmenkollen Ski Jump. I had been here for a World Cup cross-country ski race back in the 1980s (you might be surprised that I was a spectator, and not a participant ). It looked completely different then, and I also approached from below, then and now we were above, so it all seemed foreign to me. But then I realized that the jump tower itself was all new; a gleaming (literally glowing in the setting sun) piece of art masquerading as a world-class ski jump.

Built into the base of the ski jump is an engaging Ski Museum that engages most of your senses. If you are a fanatical Nordic skier/ski fan, you will love this museum (we knew many of the skiers and explorers celebrated within), if not, well, you will definitely enjoy the gift shop!

One cool connection to home was the listing of Duluth, Minnesota ski jumper Gene Kotlarek who set the distance record for the new Holmenkollen Ski Jump in 1963. He went on to compete in the 1964 Innsbruck Winter Olympics.

FROGNERSETEREN

Further up the hill, at the end of the tram line, is Frognerseteren (“The Frogner’s mountain pasture”), a wild, “city park” densely forested and laced with trails for hiking, roller-skiing (yes, that’s a thing there!) and mountain biking. [It is a major cross-country skiing area in winter.] We did a nice hike (giant slugs!) followed by a snack from the dramatic Dragestil-style Frognerseteren designed by Holm Munthe and completed in 1891. Formerly a sports center, today inside you can find Café Seterstua and Restaurant Finstua, and much of the original interior décor.

Interesting fact…The elevation difference between the start of the tram in Oslo Central and the Frognerseteren Station is 1,568 feet. The largest elevation gain of any city metro system in the World!

WHITE ON BLUE
On a sunny but very cold day in late February, I traveled out to western Carlton County in search of a Snowy Owl that had been reported there earlier in the month. I live in the NE corner of Carlton County just south of Duluth, Minnesota. I knew the odds of finding the owl were not in my favor but it was an excuse to see a part of the county I don’t usually traverse. The theme seemed to be “white on blue” with many white birds showing themselves (and a white church!), all on a backdrop of white snow, blue sky and deep blue shadows.

A beautiful Rough-legged Hawk flew up from a field along Finn Road.
It was likely hunting voles, their favorite meal. Though they are nearly as large as a Red-tailed Hawk, they have much smaller talons and a relatively tiny beak for grabbing and eating small rodents. Red-tails on the other hand, can easily take large prey such as cottontail rabbits and so need the larger “equipment.”
This individual’s incomplete belly band tells me that this is an adult male…Females and immatures have a broad black belly band.
They nest in the arctic but move south in winter in search of daylight and small rodents. Minnesota is their “Arctic Riviera.”

A DRIFT OF SNOW BUNTINGS
Another visitor from the arctic tundra that makes the northern states its winter home is the Snow Bunting. Flocks of these “snowbirds” feed on weed seeds along roads and railroad tracks and in farm fields. This flock was foraging actively but flew every time I tried to get close. This, unfortunately for the photographer, is the norm for this species.

HOARY SURPRISE
Surprising was a lone Hoary Redpoll feeding with a flock of Common Redpolls along a country road. Hoaries and Commons are two more species that breed in the north of Canada and Alaska but winter in northern Minnesota. They are an irruptive species (like the Rough-leg above) which means that they move south in varying numbers from year to year depending on the supply of food in the north…Alder catkins and birch seeds for redpolls, and voles for Rough-legged Hawks. We are thrilled to have so many redpolls this year!
Hoaries are much rarer, averaging 1 for every 100 Commons. Note her (males would have a pinkish breast) very frosty white coloration and tiny cone-shaped bill (compared to the longer sharper bill on the Common behind her.)

SUOMALAINEN KIRKKO
This old Finnish Lutheran church (Suomalainen Kirkko = Finnish Church) from 1915 was saved after its doors were closed. It was moved to this location near Hwy 73 and turned into a cultural center. I love the stark white and simple lines of this vernacular architectural gem.

I drove 95 miles and had a great time.
P.S. I did not find the Snowy Owl

2012 is gone and I’ve had a chance to look at all my images from the year and pick my favorites. Time helps clear your vision. Some images I was crazy about right after I took them, are no longer exciting to me. Here I present my favorite images of 2012 in reverse order…Maybe not the most saleable nor necessarily the best portraits (which can be boring), but the shots that I kept coming back to..the ones that intrigued me…or were difficult to get…or were the most creative. And this last bit about creativity brings me to my big announcement for 2013…I will be releasing a new video: GET CREATIVE: WILDLIFE IMAGES BEYOND THE PORTRAIT this year. Stay tuned!

#20—The surprise image of the year…I was perusing photos from my June work for the Minnesota County Biological Survey when I found this very underexposed, blaah image. But then I saw the potential as a high-contrast black and white image. The result was a very graphic silhouette of a foraging Pine Warbler amongst the long delicate needles of a Red Pine. St. Louis County, Minnesota.

#19—I spent much quality time with our backyard hummers this summer. We mainly hosted females but occasionally a bully male would show up…but never when my camera was in place. I was using flash and a Better Beamer to throw light onto the hummer but in this shot the flash did not fire. But I like the resulting softer look…No harsh light blasting the tiny bird. My home in Carlton County, Minnesota.

#18—Fall leaves always seem to vex me…I have a hard time creating interesting images of the stunning scenes around me in late September/early October. On this windy day I used a tripod and a very slow shutter speed to render the leaves a colorful blur while the trunks remained relatively still. I like the contrast of white vs. orange and blur vs. sharp. Rock Pond, UMD, Duluth, Minnesota.

#17—Eye-level Bald Eagle shots are not easy to come by! And this one has a story…It was taken 80 feet up in a firetower! I was visiting Big Bog State Recreation Area in far north central Minnesota and decided to climb the tower to get a bird’s-eye view of Lower Red Lake and surrounding forests. Some distant eagles caught my attention and I thought, wouldn’t it be cool if one flies past me in my aerial perch…And the miraculous part is that one did! It was not a gleaming white and black adult but rather a dramatically patterned youngster. I panned with the bird and amazingly it came out razor sharp.

#16—I cross this bridge over the St.Louis River on the outskirts of Duluth every day on the way to work. It has many moods and this hazy spring afternoon created a bucolic and blue still life of swans, ducks, ice and trees.

#15—My youngest son, Bjorn, shows great promise as a wildlife photographer…At least he looks good in khaki!

#14—Not a set-up! A fortuitous find that resulted in a very nice portrait with a little behavior too. This very rarely happens but it did this August morning on the Gunflint Trail. I’d just returned from a early morning paddle on the Brule River, loaded up the canoe and was pulling out of the dirt parking area when I spotted the foraging Cedar Waxwings in a heavily-fruited Mountain Ash.

#13—Just a very pleasing composition (to me anyway)…a water lily on dark water taken from a low angle to get the reflection. I also love the purplish lily pads. Cook County, Minnesota.

#12—A very long exposure with my 10mm Sigma lens was made possible by a 9-stop ND filter. I love the soft ethereal feel of the powerful Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River, belying the thunderous roar. Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming.

#11—I had to include this portrait as I have been trying to get a decent winter Snowshoe Hare photo for years! And on this snowy Sax-Zim Bog day, I succeeded! The hare really felt it was invisible and stayed put as I crawled closer and closer through the snow.

#10—Seems like I always slip in a non-nature subject. I really enjoy photographing vernacular architecture, including abandoned buildings like this farmhouse. A HDR image and sepia color finished it off. Itasca County, Minnesota.

#9—Abstract macro image of a Polyphemus Moth’s wings turned upside down to create a strange “face” complete with big blue eyes and a puckered mouth. My home in Carlton County, Minnesota.

#8—The banner headline of 2012 for us Duluthians/Carltonians was the Great Flood of June. It affected all of us dramatically. But my most powerful image was this shot of the raging St. Louis River taking out the historic and much loved Swinging Bridge of Jay Cooke State Park. Read more here.

#7—A rite of spring, the congregation of Sharp-tailed Grouse at their dancing grounds or leks, is an event I hate to miss. But it is always difficult shooting. They are most active just before sunrise when the light is poor…And it is April so the weather is often cloudy and windy. Visibility in the cramped blind is not great either. This time I resorted to a slow shutter speed and panning. I love the shot as it conveys the manic intensity of the males as they dance, pursue females, and chase off rival males. Carlton County, Minnesota.

#6—One of the few straight-up wildlife portraits in the collection, but I had to include it. Much has been made of the dramatic decline of Moose in Minnesota…and it makes me very sad. They are one of my favorite mammals. I learned to call Moose years ago…imitating the sound of a female. After a several-year dry spell, I was able to call this young bull in this fall. Intense moments followed as he was deciding whether I was a cow Moose or some stupid human. Thankfully he came to the right conclusion! See the video here.

#5—Can you tell what this is? Colorful river rocks below a Yellowstone National Park stream. It’s funny…I really don’t like abstract painting but I love much abstract photography.

#4—Two icons of Duluth in one shot! The Aerial Lift Bridge and a Ring-billed Gull. Not your typical wildlife shot but one that is certainly unique. In this technique I learned from flash/lighting guru ??? you set your camera to tungsten white balance (to turn the dark brooding sky blue) and then use a flash with an orange CTO gel to throw a very warm light on the subject, in this case, a Ring-billed Gull.

#3—Often times I’ll get home from a trip and when viewing my images in Aperture, I’ll come across an unexpected prize. It’s like Christmas as a kid! I thought I knew what my favorites would be from viewing them in the field on the back of my camera…but I’m often wrong. This is one such image. It was taken into the sunlight to backlight the Bison’s fur…but it was mostly a “G&G” shot (grab-and-go)…No premeditation, No tripod…Jump out of the car and “snap.” But after converting the image to sepia, I really loved it. Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming.

#2—I really concentrated on wide-angle wildlife this year and this may be my favorite. Crawling on my knees for hours on an Iowa prairie in September finally netted me this image. Read the whole story here. Northeast Iowa.

#1—Drumroll please…My personal favorite from 2012. Read the whole story of this bog encounter here. See the video here. I like the Great Gray Owl’s furtive glance around the trunk of a spruce…It lends an air of mystery. It is very “Brandenburg’s-wolf-peek-esque” if you’ve ever seen his famous photo. Sax-Zim Bog, Minnesota.

What gets me ALMOST as excited as photographing birds, is shooting abandoned buildings, barns and vernacular architecture from a bygone era. That’s a crazy thing for “The Photonaturalist” to say, but it’s true. Maybe it’s nostalgia from our many trips to my grandparent’s farm in rural South Dakota…or maybe from growing up in an outer-ring suburb of Minneapolis and watching all the cool old buildings and farms get swallowed up by housing developments…or maybe from my dad’s stories of going to a one-room schoolhouse…or from poking around old abandoned farms with my photographer uncle, Ben. However I came by it, it is an addiction.

When I saw this empty and lonely farm house in rural Itasca County, I stepped hard on the brakes, did a U-turn and grabbed my camera. Trespassing is a habit of photographers who love abandoned buildings. This leafless gnarled tree in the “front yard” really added to the eerie feel.

The top image was highly manipulated
1. Adjusted in Aperture (exposure, levels, curves, white balance, etc)
2. Converted to black & white in Aperture
3. Converted to sepia for fun…and I liked it!
4. Vignette added (quite heavy vignette for a spookier feel)
5. Exported out of Aperture and opened in Photoshop to tweak the perspective and add “noise” to make it grainier

A low-contrast color version lightens the mood.

And some moody black & whites…I love that tree!

Canon 7D with Sigma 10-20mm lens, hand-held