The PhotoNaturalist

July 4, 2025

My Great Grandfather Anders Stensaas came from the Melhus/Kvål area of central Norway in the early 1900s and settled near Vermillion, South Dakota. After a few years, he went back to Norway to marry the girl from the neighboring farm, Anna Rofstad. Anna’s father Ivar was distraught and angry that Anders had taken his daughter away. It is hard to fathom these days how far Norway and South Dakota really were in the early 1900s; no planes, no phones, only a slow boat from Oslo and a long train ride to the prairie. Letters were his only connection to his daughter.

In the early 1930s, Anders and Anna (now Americanized to “Andrew and Anne”), returned to Melhus and had a homecoming with her father. They all made peace, and he soon died at age 99.

Our connection to our Norwegian family has always been through Anna’s family, the Rofstad side. That’s just how it goes sometimes…Connections shift from maternal to paternal and back and forth over time.

My father was stationed in Germany in 1957-58 with the highly prestigious “U.S. Army Accounting Corp,” a fearsome, highly-trained….okay, okay, I’ll stop now. Dad was drafted after graduating from Augustana College in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, and his main interest while stationed overseas was to see as much of the European continent as he could on Uncle Sam’s dime.

He made trips to Paris (Eiffel Tower, Louvre), London, Copenhagen, Stockholm, Holland, a cruise down the Rhine River, skiing in the Swiss Alps, and even attended the World’s Fair in Brussels. And then he contacted his second cousin Gudrun (Rofstad) Moum in Vikhamar near Trondheim to see if he could visit. He had a great time with Gudrun and Hermann, and they visited the Rofstad family dairy farm (see photos).

Fast forward to 2025, and I thought it would be neat if the boys could see the ancestral homeland. I had been there multiple times in the past, Bridget and I even visited on our Honeymoon, so I told Jan that we’d just have a short “stand-up” visit. Well, that is nearly impossible when visiting relatives in Norway!

The short “stand-up” visit went out the window when the phrase, “Why don’t we go in and have some coffee,” was offered. And the photo albums came out, and then here came the cakes. Don’t get me wrong, I loved it!

But almost none of the farm Rofstad relatives spoke English very well, but thankfully Jan, Liv and Anders did a lot of translating for us. Did I mention that there was cake(!) and more coffee, and lots of stories. Good fun! But my Bjorn was so tired that he fell asleep on Bridget’s shoulder.

Eventually the gathering migrated to the local Lutheran Church in Melhus where I thought we might see the gravestones of our common ancestor Ivar Rofstad (both Jan’s and My Great Great Grandfather). I had seen the grave marker on a trip in the 1980s and wanted to find it again. But I was told that after a gravestone had been in place for 20 years, the family must pay a maintenance fee for it to remain in the cemetery. And if they don’t pay, another, newer, gravestone is put in its place. This seems downright crazy to me, but then again, in the U.S. we don’t have many centuries of dead people in graveyards, and we have lots of space to make cemeteries bigger and bigger.

Long story, short…we couldn’t find his grave. But I did see the marker for Ingebrigt Rofstad. Such a nice man! I had met him here in 1986 I believe.

The current church itself dates to 1892 and is an impressive and imposing stone house of worship that holds 500 congregants. I could hear organ music coming from inside but did not go in.

Historically on this spot was the Medieval Church completed in 1190AD. It was torn down by Royal decree in the late 1800s to make room for the new church. But they did re-use some parts, including the portal. And in 1999 restorers found actual runic carvings in the portal. The best interpretation is “sea priest” or “male goat priest” or “Hafr (the) priest.” The Runic alphabet basically went extinct by the 1400s, so this inscription predates that time.

Next—Off to the Viking capitol, TRONDHEIM

In Part 1 from Churchill on Hudson Bay…

My wife Bridget gave me some money for Father’s Day a few years ago to finally go see a Polar Bear. I think she was sick of my whining that I’d never seen one on my June trips to photograph birds up in Churchill.

But it wasn’t enough money.

So I saved up and went in mid September 2025. 

I went just on my own, rented a truck and drove around the limited road network outside of Churchill Manitoba on Hudson Bay.

You see the Polar Bears congregate here to wait for the sea ice to freeze so they can get on with doing what they love…Hunt seals from the ice! 

Well, it wasn’t as easy as I’d thought. But soon after foolishly getting stuck in the sand right in the middle of a known Polar Bear area, I did actually spot a speck of white that was NOT a pale-colored rock or old mattress,  It actually had fur!

This was the first of four Polar Bear sightings…one each day. And I think they were all the same bear! I named him Larry. Larry the Polar Bear.

One encounter stood out above the rest; mainly because he came to me! And quite close!

With binoculars and camera, Sparky heads off to beautiful Box Canyon in southeast Arizona. Only a few miles from the world-famous Madera Canyon, Box Canyon hosts some dry hillside species that are rare in most of this area. In fact, a cooperative and bold Five-striped Sparrow perches nicely for Sparky right off the rugged road that traverses Box Canyon.

Sparky also finds a nest of a pair of animated Thick-billed Kingbirds, but one of the babies is not quite ready to fledge.

Walking a random wash in the canyon leads to a close-up encounter with a Varied Bunting. Multiple evenings were spent with new friends listening for the CODE 3 Buff-collared Nightjar. This would be a Lifer…but did Sparky hear it? You’ll have to watch to see.

One stormy night yields a friendly Tarantula, and a 3-foot Black-tailed Rattlesnake sporting its lovely green scales.

July 3-4, 2025

Join the Stensaas famly as we travel from Lillehammer to the historic town of Røros.

Leaving Lillehammer in the afternoon, we wound our way north on the 3 ½ hour drive towards Røros. My natural magnetism to stave churches kicked in again as we stumbled upon yet another! The Ringebu Stavkyrkje. The family was not keen on waiting for me to tour it so I had to be satisfied with a photo from the driver’s seat.

But it was here that I became a bit confused. Google was trying to take us down a narrow dirt road as the fastest way to Røros. We stopped at a little roadside shed where a man was selling stave church souvenirs and Coke. He didn’t speak any English but I made out that, yes, we were on the right track. After a few miles the road widened and then was paved. It traversed a mountain plateau that had to be a preserve or park. How did I know that, you ask? Well, there were no hytte! There are cabins (hytte) scattered all over the mountains of Norway, even in the most remote locations. So if this was not a park, there would be hytte all over. Indeed, it turned out that this barren but beautiful landscape was Rondane National Park, Norway’s first national park designated in 1962. Wild Reindeer roam these mountains but we did not see hide nor hoof.

Dropping down into the Glomma River Valley we snaked along the waterway for a long way. The two-land road was excellent but we were stuck behind several vehicles that were stuck behind a very slow local…and no straightaways long enough to pass. That’s okay, it was lovely scenery and we noticed multiple trout fisherman (salmon?) out flyfishing in the river.

Jan met us in the tiny town Glåmos near his and Liv’s cabin, and we followed him up the narrow drive. Originally a tiny hytte, it is now a lovely spacious family retreat. It was so nice to connect with Jan and Liv after so many years! Bridget and I visited them on our honeymoon in July of 2006. Always gracious hosts

After a typical Norwegian buffet-style breakfast, we headed to Røros, and connected with Nora (“Noora” på Norsk), Jan & Liv’s 15-year old granddaughter, who was to be our guide. And, wow, she has a future in tourism (or acting or public relations) as she gave us an impressive running narrative about the historic town and its sites.

Røros is a very old mining town that was founded after a 1644 discovery of copper. The story goes that a hunter shot a deer and as it struggled in its death throes, it scraped the moss away to reveal the gleam of copper. Soon the Røros Copper Works was founded and mining began. Since Norway was ruled by Denmark at the time, 10 percent of all copper had to be given to the Danish king, most of which went to fund war efforts and make armour. [Interestingly, Røros Copper Works thrived and survived for over three centuries, only to go out of business in 1977.]

Though the town of Røros did burn several times, amazingly many log homes still stand, some dating from the 1600s but most from the late 1700s and 1800s. It is one of the oldest wood villages in Europe. In 1980 Old Røros was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Nora led us up the quaint curvy streets to the top of the slag heep. Now you don’t normally think of an unsightly pile of rocks as a historic site, but this mound of mine waste is part of the story of the town and it is now a tourist attraction.

I was especially taken by the variety and uniqueness of all the wood doors around town. So much so that I took photos of 20 different doors to turn into a poster/collage (see photo in post).

Prior to the discovery of copper, this remote and cold part of Norway (coldest area in the country due to it being far inland from the sea) was the traditional homerange of nomadic Sami (Lapplanders) Reindeer herders.

And nearby there still are Southern Sami Reindeer herders. Back home, I occasionally tell people that some of my Stensaas relatives run a Reindeer slaughterhouse in Norway…and that is mostly true. The “Stensaas Reindyrslakteri” has been in business just east of Røros since 1890, but the connection to my Melhus/Kvål Stensaas’s (my family) is thin at best.

Still, I thought the boys would get a kick out of visiting there and seeing the Stensaas name on a commercial business, and so we all drove out there to have a look. Stensaas Reindryslakteri produces wholesale and retail reindeer meats for groceries and specialty shops around Norway. Jan found the owner (4^th or 5^th generation?) who came out and chatted with us. And of course we took the mandatory photo of the boys in front of the emblazoned “Stensaas” delivery van 

A wonderful blue-sky day with family in Røros!

Now it was time to head up the road to my ancestral Stensaas/Rofstad homeland near Melhus/Kvål near Trondheim.

NEXT—Norway #7

ANCESTRAL STENSAAS-ROFSTAD FARMS

In this third episode of Birding & Bird Photography from southeast Arizona, I head 2 miles into a remote canyon to find a rare warbler from Mexico.

Sycamore Canyon off the rugged Ruby Road is an out-of-the-way birding location just a few miles from the Mexican border. It is a common immigrant route for those fleeing Mexico, and signs were everywhere. A Border Patrol helicopter suddenly appeared over the canyon wall and zipped right overhead. I guess the fact that I was carrying a camera, and was headed in the “wrong” direction signaled that I was just a crazy birder and not an illegal migrant.

I meet Connor and Alex on the way in. A day earlier they had helped me with info about the Berylline Hummingbird at Santa Rita Lodge, and once again they provide me with valuable info on finding another rare bird.

This time it was the Rufous-capped Warbler, a “code 3” rarity from Mexico. It is seen nearly every year somewhere in SE Arizona or Texas but usually only one or two birds. In fact, between 1993 and 2025 it was only not found in the U.S. in 1997.

After getting turned around and backtracking, I eventually find the warbler. It is a real stunner, and looks more like a Chat than a wood warbler. I enjoy some brief looks as it forages in the shrubs and small trees in the canyon.

Other highlights include a Black Vulture (small SE AZ population), Rock Wren, several Canyon Wrens (nice! I rarely have seen), singing Rufous-crowned Sparrows, Hepatic Tanager, and Western Tanager.

Herps included a brief look at a Black-necked Garter Snake, and photos of Clark’s Spiny Lizards, and Elegant Earless Lizard.

I find a DOR (dead-on-road) lifer Hog-nosed Skunk on Ruby Road.

Sycamore is a very remote canyon, and there a few things every visitor should know:

–The road in is rugged but drivable by a rental car

–The “trail” in the canyon is undeveloped at best, and it is very easy to lose the route.

–Must bring plenty of water, sunscreen, hat, etc.

–No cell service! So make sure you have a compass or other ways to navigate.

–Trail is rocky but flat. Easy in places, but tough in others.

–After about 1.8 miles the route is blocked by a cliff and a small waterfall and ledge. It takes some real scrambling to make it around this point (I did it but I was a bit turned around and had already gone past the warbler location)

Madera Canyon in southeast Arizona is a legendary birding location…and the bird photography isn’t bad either! I spend parts of two days in this “sky island” canyon on this mid August trip.

Berylline Hummingbird is a Mexican bird species that occasionally shows up in southeast Arizona. The American Birding Association (ABA) labels it a Code 3 rarity. It would be a Lifer for me. Will I see it? The Santa Rita Lodge feeders are alive with hummers including Rufous, Anna’s, Black-chinned.

During the slower parts of the day, I sit at a water hole along the creek, and watch multiple species come in, including a Warbling Vireo. I get a photo, but what I didn’t realize, was that in just two short days, the American Ornithological Society (AOS) would split this species into two—Western Warbling-Vireo and Eastern Warbling-Vireo. A LIFER!

The crimson-bellied flycatcher known as Painted Redstart comes in for a drink, as well as Acorn Woodpecker, White-winged Dove, Plumbeous Vireo and others. Calling its “squeaky toy” song nearby is a Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher, which I manage to get a few photos of in the canopy.

Other Madera Canyon highlights were Bridled Titmouse, Mexican Jay, and Hutton’s Vireo, a species I’ve never photographed before.

NEXT EPISODE—Arizona #3d 

Lifer on the Mexican Border—”Death march into Sycamore Canyon”

In Part 1 of Sparky’s August trip to southeast Arizona, he concentrates on finding the mountain warblers and magnificent hummers of Tucson’s Mount Lemmon. Only a short drive from the city, but a world away as far as habitats, Mount Lemmon rises to over 9,000 feet where pine forests dominate. It is even high enough to get several feet of snow each winter and sustain a downhill skiing area! The mountain is an example of a “Sky Island,” one of several of these isolated mountains/mountain ranges rising up from the deserts of southeast Arizona. The 27 mile Santa Catalina Highway traverses multiple habitats/biomes and provides dozens of excellent birding locations.

The Palisades Visitor Center at 7,950 feet is a great stop to see hummingbirds up close. On this visit Sparky finds dozens of noisy Rufous Hummingbirds (including one single adult male in stunning coppery plumage), several red-throated “zinging” Black-chinneds and a few rosy-headed Anna’s. A magnificent Rivoli’s Hummer joins the party as well, showing off its iridescent purple and teal feathers.

Sparky shares a couple unique photography techniques to capture the beauty and speed of these unique hummingbirds. Shooting video at 1/5000 of a second frame rate can yield some stunning still images.

Then down at Rose Lake Canyon Sparky stumbles on a nice wave of Mountain Chickadees, Pygmy Nuthatches, and Bushtits. Amongst them are several high elevation “mountain” warblers at eye-level including Grace’s, Black-throated Gray, and a stunning Red-faced Warbler.

At the end of the video, Sparky shares his favorite images of this episode.

In the next episode (SE AZ Part 2) Sparky travels to Madera Canyon. Will he get his Lifer Berryline Hummingbird? And what is that strange mammal coming down the path?

Sparky kayaks around Stone Lake in northern Minnesota’s Sax-Zim Bog looking for birdlife. Highlights include Sedge Wren, Belted Kingfisher, Common Loon and an unexpected River Otter.

Late summer wildflowers are peak in late July/early August in the Bog and we take a look at a few finds. 

Sparky gives updates on upcoming events including the Artist-in-Residence program and author/photographer Paul Bannick’s Welcome Center talk on Saturday September 27. Paul will speak on his new book, Woodpecker: A Year in the Life of North America’s Woodpeckers.

We end the video with highights of the Friends of Sax-Zim Bog BioBlitz XIII.

This is Virtually Live Episode 56 (Season 6, Episode 1)

It was time to leave our cozy cabin on the Sognefjord and head north. I am quite positive that any search for directions in Norway via Google Maps results in a squiggly line that can’t possible be the quickest route…but, alas, due to intervening fjords and mountains, it usually is. This was such the case in our travels to Lillehammer.

But we had all day, so the circuitous route was no problem. We stopped by another stave church (post coming soon), which Birk and I explored. Bridget and Bjorn were “stave-churched-out” by now.

The boathouses of Vik are a colorful lot.

Our lodging for the night was adjacent to the downtown railroad station (in fact it was called the Stasjon Hotel), and this was my worst lodging decision of the trip. Not that it was noisy, it was not, but that it was basically a youth hostel with some marginally nicer private rooms. Tiny and spartan.

I had been to Lillehammer on two occasions before…both in winter. Once was for the 1994 Winter Olympics; a joyous and enthusiastic gathering. I don’t think the world has ever seen so many Norwegian flags and hand-knit sweaters in one spot! I was mesmerized by the whole spectacle, and took in ski jumping (Espen Bredeson!), the 4x10k Nordic Relay (Norwegian men losing by a hair to Italy…You’ve never heard such a loud silence), the downhill (Åmodt), speed skating (American Dan Jansen). Okay, enough reminiscing…back to 2025.

To celebrate that Olympic history we decided to try the Olympic bobsled run in nearby Hunderfoss. I guess we got to the site early as no one was around. The place looked abandoned. Finally some workers drifted in and we signed our lives away with waivers. A short van ride to the top I found out that our Bobsled driver was not actually a bobsledder himself. Okaaay.

After putting on heavy duty helmets, we were given instruction on how to enjoy the 65km per hour ride down a curvy track while pulling 3Gs of force! “Keep your chin up” was basically the only instructions.

I’m not going to lie…I did not enjoy the ride. It was 90 seconds of unpleasantness for me.  My helmeted head banging off the roll cage with every turn. Bridget and Birk really loved the experience though.

Later, while chatting with my relatives in Trondheim, Jan related that a couple of his work colleagues had done the same ride and both had gotten injured, resulting in a few months of chiropractic work. Yikes!

We made our way back to the outskirts of Lillehammer to visit Maihaugen, possibly Norway’s best outdoor folk museum. But first we had to take a spin through the Olympic Museum that is housed in the Maihaugen interpretive center. Being Olympic nerds and a skiing family, it was quite cool to see familiar names from past Olympics.

Maihaugen was the brainchild of Anders Sandvig a Lillehammer dentist who started buying up and preserving old farm buildings in the late 1800s. He was not a wealthy man, so he eventually gifted the buildings to the town.

Over 200 buildings dot the expansive and hilly site. Maihaugen is especially blessed with many early log farm buildings (1600s to 1800s). Laced with walking paths, you wander between a mountain farm to a fishing village to a blacksmith shop, even to a 1950s suburb. They have two historic “crown jewels” on the grounds: the 1200s Garmo stave church and Queen Sonia’s childhood home; both moved to the site from their original spots.

Bridget and the boys went off on their own as they knew I would linger far too long at the log barns.

We reconvened after a couple hours and all agreed it was well worth a half-day visit. I think we could have made a full day of Maihaugen! I even bought the book that contains details on most of the buildings because I didn’t have time to read all the signage.

NEXT—Norway #6

My Norwegian Family; Røros to Trondheim

Southeast Arizona Birding—August 10-16, 2025

In early August I brought Bjorn down to spend a week at his grandma’s farm in Illinois. But instead of making the 18-hour round trip drive twice in seven days, I instead flew from Peoria to Tucson for some monsoon season desert birding.

It was a bizarre pre-dawn drive on the rough Ruby Road to get to the remote Sycamore Canyon. The only cars that I saw were 7(!) Border Patrol trucks. Obviously this is a commonly used route for migrants. 

Connor and Alex, grad students at Texas A&M had arrived just before me, along with a couple Border Patrol agents on foot. They took off at a quick pace while I took my time along the trail…or maybe I should write “trail,” since it was often barely perceptible which way one should go. It is a fairly flat trail but the heat, lack of signage and uneven substrate make it a challenging journey.

Alex and Connor gave me a GPS location and a good habitat description on their way out, but Google Earth was not connecting in this remote valley and I overshot the spot. I knew it was like 1.75 miles int the canyon but I “overthunk” it and ended up doing some risky boulder scrambling to get around a steep dry waterfall slope and rock cliff.

Then suddenly a Border Patrol helicopter popped over the cliffs above and buzzed down the canyon and over my head. I know they are used to occasional birders so ignored me. Odd feeling to be in such a remote place all alone and have a helicopter check you out.

But I get it…this must be a well-used crossing point. I saw much sign of folks traveling through this canyon: abandoned canteen with home-sewn bluejean cover, tuna packets, random clothes, Red Cross blanket. 

Finally I turned around. It just didn’t feel like this was the spot Alex and Connor had described. They also said it was singing so I was listening for the song and its call chip note, which to me sounds like that of a Junco. After another sketchy rock scramble and a half mile hike back up down the canyon I heard the call note.

There it was! A male in all his glory…lemon yellow with a stout bill and namesake rufous cap. I got to spend a grand total of 37 seconds with him before he flitted off through the wash-side brush. ABA area lifer number 658! (or so…I need to redo my checklist).

Rufous-capped Warbler is a Mexican species that only rarely shows up in the U.S. and when it does, almost always in SE Arizona.

I plopped down on a rock on the hillside and just waited and watched for another 45 minutes or so, but the Rufous-capped did not show again. The Border Patrol agents did pass by but evidently did not see me only 20 yards away.

It was now getting quite hot. I met a few other die hards on their way in to find the warbler. I helped one young guy who had gotten off the trail and was a bit turned around (easy to do here!).

Other highlights: Rock Wrens, Rufous-crowned Sparrow, singing and close-up Canyon Wrens, Clark’s Spiny Lizard, Elegant Earless Lizard, and a very unexpected Black Vulture(!), an eastern species that I learned has a tiny outpost in SE Arizona including Sycamore Canyon. Also a sad but interesting find…Road-kill Hognosed Skunk.

**I am working on my YouTube videos about this Arizona trip, so stay tuned!